Each October when the temperature
drops in the mountains the larch trees turn a from green to a golden orange
before dropping their needles. This is one of the best displays of color in
the whole state. I try to get in one good larch trip each Fall. Since the
peak of the larch usually coincides with the start of hunting season, it
can be a little exciting as well. The one safe bet is the trail to Ingalls
Pass and Ingalls Lake. The few hunters who choose this trail soon realize
that they are outnumbered 10 to 1 by hikers and go somewhere else. I still
take an orange vest just to be safe but it usually is not necessary. The real
trick is to get a sunny day to photograph the larch. This year I had nearly
perfect conditions. I was out of the house be 6:30 and on the trail by 8:45.
I was surprised to find that the parking lot was still half empty. A lot
of people overnight in Headlight Basin this time of year. Nearly all the
cars turned out to be overnighters. In the early morning it was clear but
cold. I guess the temperature was about 32 degrees. It had been many months
since I had hiked in freezing temperature. The trail is nicely graded but
steep enough to warm me up in a short time. Since the trail head is at 4300'
it didn't take long to get out of the forest and get some nice views. Esmerelda
Peaks are right across and Fortune Peak is up the valley. Soon Koppen Mountain
came into view. After the junction with the trail to Longs Pass the way begins
a long contour towards the pass Much of the way is narrow and a little difficult
to pass. At my early hour there were no other hikers out. Before the pass
I met only a couple of hunters who had camped out overnight. As I neared
the pass I still had not seen any larch. Right at the pass they came into
view.
From the pass Mount Stuart is just across the valley.
Headlight Basin was filled with golden larch. I had hit the trees right about
at their peak. Immediately I started to take photos. The sun was still low
in the sky and made for a good picture taking opportunities. There was a group
at the pass and I passed two others near the top. Since it was only 10:20
I had all day to enjoy the sights. I headed out on the high trail through
the top of Headlight Basin. Once in the basin I stopped at one of my favorite
spots. It's just off the trail and looks directly at Stuart. All around me
where all sizes of larch trees. Since I bought a digital camera I have gone
a little crazy taking pictures. The memory card holds 146 photos and I now
take many more than when I had a roll of film. Before the day was over I had
taken 90 shots. It is a real chore to sort through them after a hike but
well worth it.
After nearly an hour break I headed on towards Ingalls
Lake. The basin is filled with creeks, rocks, and larch trees. It is nice
in the Summer but at it's best in October. I spent more time taking pictures
than hiking. It was one of the slowest and most enjoyable times I have had
all year. The trail reaches the end of the basin and then descends before
climbing up to Ingalls Lake. The last section up to the lake is indistinct
in many places. A series of rock cairns keep you on the right track As I was
descending I ran into the two hikers I had passed just before the pass. They
were heading uphill towards me. They inquired if they were heading towards
the lake. I turned them around and suggested they follow me. Soon we met two
more hikers coming towards us. They too were looking for the lake. I turned
them around and proceeded on like the pied piper with hikers following me.
The trail weaves it's way through cliffs and tops out above the lake. By
now the wind had picked up and I looked to find a place to get out of it.
I had to drop down near the lake to get out of most of the wind but stay in
the sunshine. I talked with several climbers heading out after an unsuccessful
attempt at the North Ridge of Stuart. They missed the summit but had a great
couple of days trying. Over the next hour the crowds began to arrive. The
lake is mobbed all summer long. This day it was a distant second to the larch
trees as an attraction. After a long stay I headed back. The sun was now so
high and bright that taking pictures was difficult. I was glad to have been
on the trail early. The basin is so magical that I hiked out at a snails pace.
It will be another year before I get a chance to see the larch at the their
golden best. When I made it back to Ingalls Pass the wind was blowing very
strongly. I put on several layers of clothes to keep warm. After dropping
down on the south side the wind nearly stopped. The rest of the way back was
uneventful. I passed several more parties coming up late. By 4:30 I was back
at my car. For the day I spent nearly 8 hours to hike just 9 miles with about
3200' of gain. The snow will soon bury the Teanaway country but I had one
last great trip there this year.