Shriner Peak is one of those trails
that I have known about for years but I never actually went out and hiked
it. My friend Gary has done it many times and we have talked about doing it
together on several occasions. This day we had planned on going over to the
Olympics and hiking up Mt. Jupiter. The weather report had been turning more
negative in the preceding 24 hours and we didn't want to go that far and
not have a view. At 9:15 Saturday night we finally connected and decided to
find an alternative to Jupiter. The forecast was for morning drizzle and some
afternoon clearing. At that point Gary came up with Shriner Peak and since
I had not done it I agreed. There might not be any view but at least I would
have a new summit.
We met in Kent at 7:00 and were at the trailhead, 7
1/2 miles south of Cayuse Pass, by 8:30. The roadside parking area is exactly
opposite the mile 9 sign. By the time you see the trail sign you have passed
the parking. The trail starts just down the road. Most of the drive from Cayuse
was in thick fog. By the trailhead we were below it. There was no drizzle
but it was not clear either. The trail is very nicely constructed. It starts
out at a Mt. Si like 800' per mile pace. After one quick switchback it begins
a very long traverse to the south. The trail is very smooth and a real joy
to hike. The first section is in the forest. After the heat of the day before
at Esmerelda the cool morning was much appreciated by me. We were quite surprised
to see 6 other cars on an overcast morning at 8:30am. As we proceeded higher
we passed most of the other early birds. After gaining about 2000' we reached
a very short side trail to a great view of Mt. Rainier. Someone else beat
us to this viewpoint. From the trail Rainier was now visible as well. The
lower mountain was in the clouds but the upper section seemed to float above
the clouds. By now the clouds were rapidly vanishing. The weather forecasters
struck again as we were on our way to a very sunny day. Once out of the trees
the trail climbs a hillside blanketed with wildflowers. We saw the usual
paintbrush, and lupine but also tiger lilies, columbine, glacier lilies,
avalanche lilies, and lots of beargrass. We passes a second group then a
third and a fourth. At about 4900' we encountered snow. At first it was just
a few small patches. As we entered forest it became thicker. We lost the
trail and rather than hunt for it we headed straight up. The actual trail
turned to the left and exited the forest. At that point it returned to dirt
all the way to the top. We found this out on our way down. The rest of the
way up was much more interesting. We soon reached a ridge and followed it
up. Sometimes on snow and sometimes on dirt we kept climbing. Much of the
way off snow was following game trails. The animals don't seem to have any
problem getting around the peak. We climbed over 400' off trail and eventually
reached the summit. By now there were only a few small clouds below Rainier.
Otherwise, the sky was completely clear. With our little detour and a number
of stops to take pictures, it took just over 2 hours to reach the top. The
distance and elevation are nearly identical to Mt. Si but the scenery is one
heck of a lot better. Mt. Rainier is enormous from Shriner.
We put on dry shirts poured on the sun screen and sat
down to an early (10:45) lunch. Beargrass grows all around the summit. Most
of the other wildflowers are here too. The lookout is locked but you can climb
the stairs and walk all the way around it. We pulled out maps and the binoculars
and spent quite awhile picking out all the summits around Mt. Rainier. Little
Tahoma is directly in line with Rainier and at first I didn't even recognize
it as a separate peak. The Tatoosh Range is fully visible to your left. To
the right we could see the trail up Fremont Lookout. We identified Tamanos,
Barrier, The Cowlitz Chimneys, Mt. Ruth, and Steamboat Prow. We also saw
numerous rope teams coming down the Emmons Glacier at about 12000'. The whole
east side of Mt. Rainier is laid out before you. On top it was warm but not
hot, there was a gently breeze, and the bugs were not much of a bother. All
in all, it was nearly perfect. There were 2 hikers on top when we arrived.
They left and the next group arrived after about an hour. We spent 2 full
hours on the summit. I really did not want to leave. At 12:45 we packed up
and headed down. The trip down was no problem. As stated earlier, the trail
down to the snow in the trees is bare. After the short section on snow we
were back on dirt for the rest of the way down. It's 4.2 miles and 3400'
to the top. With our shortcut we probably did about 8 miles round trip. This
a spectacular hike on a clear day. Our timing was great. The snow was nearly
gone and the wildflowers were near their peak. I will definitely be back
to Shriner Peak before long.