Iron
- Bean Peaks Loop
08-28-22
I
had only one 4000' gain hike all
year. I had not been above 6000' either. It was time for trip to the
Teanaway. After another hot week with temperatures in the 90 in Cle
Elum, the weekend cooled down. Very cool on Saturday with winds
forecast to gust up to 24 mph. High up on ridges with high winds does
not appeal to me. Sunday would be clear and warmer with a high of 78 in
Cle Elum. That sounded better though at the upper end of my comfortable
heat level. I was out of Seattle at 6:00 am. I stopped for gas in Cle
Elum where their $4.06 was 97 cents cheaper than North Seattle. The
Beverly Creek Road is pretty awful now. It was fine until the forest
service decided to but drain trenches across the road. As cars drop in
and spin their tires the trench just keeps getting deeper. They were
put in places where there had been no erosion problems. Okay, I'll end
the rant here. Once car stopped just before the first deep trench. With
8.5" ground clearance and 4WD I did fine. At the trailhead there were 6
other vehicles. Five SUVs and one truck. The lot was more than half
empty. My car thermometer showed it was only n41 degrees outside. Just
a bit chilly.
I was packed and started out at 8:19 am. The bridge is signed for only
one person at a time. I hope it survives another winter snow load.
There were a few flowers still blooming on the old road section.
Foremost was pearly everlasting. I reached Bean Creek to find the water
level low enough for an easy rock hop. The trails along my route had
more than a dozen trees down. In a few spots one side of the tree was
cut. Most of them were not cut at all. None were difficult to go over
or around but by late August this trail has always been cleared as far
back as I can recall. I don't recall any trees across the Bean Creek
Trail and that one is much more popular.
The forest walk was pleasant. The temperature began to rise quickly. By
the time I was out of the forest I had my sleeves pulled up. Where the
trail heads over to Beverly Creek the water was still running though
there was not much. In summer it often runs underground here and the
creek bed is dry. The trail has always been rocky as it switchbacks up
the slope and heads up the valley. This year it is much rockier than
usual. The rocks and gravel just slowed me down. There were some asters
and Valerian hanging on but few flowers were still blooming. I stopped
for photos where Iron, Teanaway and Bill's Peak are all in view. I was
in shade but the peaks were bathed in morning sunshine. I could see
ahead where shade turned to sunshine. Once out in the sunshine I would
have a lot more sun than shade the rest of the day.
I did have a little shade higher up the basin. I reached the junction
with the Fourth Creek Trail at 9:34 am. I covered 2.6 miles in 1:15.
The creeks in the upper basin are often dry by late August. This year
they were still running. With the water there were Indian paintbrush
and asters still in bloom. After crossing the main creek the trail is
always pretty rocky at first. This year the rocks and gravel continue
on for quite a ways. It made the trail more tedious than usual. As I
climbed up the hillside the views began to improve. At first there are
breaks in forest but higher up the views are open to the peaks around
the the valley below. Volcanic Neck was the first to come into view.
Soon I could see Bean Peak. That is where I would be heading after
summiting Iron Peak. I started to notice multiple clumps of blooming
gentians. These flowers are a sign of fall. With all the recent heat it
did not feel like fall.
I turned off the for the trail up to Iron Peak instead of the trail
heading for Beverly-Turnpike Pass. Now I was mostly out in the open. I
started at 41 degrees. In the sunshine it now felt like 75 degrees. I
had some shade before the final switchbacks up to the pass. I put on a
short sleeve shirt and zipped off my pant legs. That really helped. A
little food and water and I was ready to continue up. At the pass I
added views to the west. I could see out to the Cascade Crest
peaks. I could also see Mt. Rainier and Mt. Daniel. The hike up to the
summit is a long ridge walk. Great views all around and pretty easy
terrain. I arrived at the summit at about 10:45 am. At the summit I
found the first 3 people I had seen all day. They came up Beverly Creek
also but let well before me. We had a good conversation and half an
hour went by very fast. I brought my super zoom camera for summit shots
and put it to good use. It was a bit hazy but I could see Rainier and
Adams clear enough.
The others headed down and I followed. We left the top at 11:11 am. I
picked up my pace and pulled ahead. When I reached the saddle I
realized in all the talk at the summit I had forgotten to put on
sunscreen. I stopped and loaded up. The descend into the valley went
quickly. I passed a guy and young son heading up. At the
Beverly-Turnpike Trail junction I saw two mountain bikes speed down
before I arrived. That was it for the rest of the day. I passed two
groups and saw one at a distance. Incredible solitude in a popular
area. At the Fourth Creek Trail junction I turned left and headed
uphill. This was one of the worst trail sections. It is steep and has a
lot of rocks and gravel. The sun was getting very hot and the poor
tread had me moving pretty slowly. Fortunately, it was short. I was up
at the pass in 16 minutes. It was now 12:16 pm. Time for
another food and water break. The County Line Trail heading for
Volcanic Neck is mostly a fairly flat traverse through forest and
meadows.
The trail is often pretty dry this late in the year. This year there
were four or five creeks still flowing. I made good time on the flatter
section. I knew what was coming. When the climbing stats it gets down
to business. More rocky and gravelly trenches pretending to be trails.
On a cool day this is just a minor problem. When it feels very hot it
seems worse. The forecast was off by at least 7 or 8 degrees. For the
climb up to the meadows below the ridge top pass I went slow and
steadily. At the top there were some big trees to provide shade. From
here there would be almost no shade going up Bean Peak and dropping
down into Bean Creek Basin. The last climb to the ridge top was actual
switchbacks. That felt pretty good. I also had improving views with
each step. Mary, Iron, Teanaway, Bill's, Stuart, and the Stuart Range
were in sight.
At the ridge top I had a slight breeze. That was great. Now came the
fun part. A long ridge top scramble up Bean Peak. Only the last part
required using hands. I was very glad when I ran out of mountain. There
was nobody else atop Bean. At 6743; Bean is 233' higher than Iron Peak.
It has a small summit area unlike Iron which is the high point on a
long ridge. Since I was solo on this trip I left Gary my exact
itinerary and texted updates. I let him know I was safely atop Bean
Peak. The views are fantastic. Peaks in all directions. I have been up
Bean a few dozen times and enjoy the view each time. I arrived at 1:34
pm. I finished the 4400' of gain before the hottest time of day. I was
in good shape time wise. I spent 32 minutes on top and then headed
down. Most people go down the southeast ridge heading towards Earl
Peak. In the last half dozen years a minor boot path that climbed a
short way up form Bean Creek Basin has morphed into a trail to the
ridge top. I always just went cross country on my way up and down. This
time I headed straight down the face and then angled a little left
dropping into the basin. That is 1150' of boulders, and scree, and
forest, and brush. It does make it interesting. It took me about 50
minutes to reach the basin.
There was nobody there. All the way back I saw nobody. My trail of
solitude continued. I dropped down to the lower basin and then into
forest. The first sustained shade I had seen since the meadow below the
pass on the opposite side of Bean Peak. It was quite enjoyable. With
the view behind me it was just a couple miles of forest, meadows, and
brush getting down to where I crossed Bean Creek in the morning. The
upper crossing of the creek was an easy rock hop. I arrived at the
trailhead at 4:01 pm. I came down from the summit of Bean Peak in just
under 2 hours. There were now 3 other cars in the lot. The car
thermometer now showed it was 76 degrees. It was a bit toastier than I
prefer for a 12 mile hike with 4400' of elevation gain,
I was very pleased with the day. It was long past time to visit a
6000'+ summit and two in one day was even better. The lack of other
people was surprising. Iron Peak has a shorter trail and I usually see
some folks on the way up and down the ridge. Today it was just the
three on the
summit. It was warmer than I was expecting but not another 80+ degree
day in the Teanaway. Warm was not still not way too hot. I love the
scramble up and down Bean Peak and it was just as good as always.
There were a few wildflowers hanging on and the blooming
gentians were blooming early. All in all, a very good day on the trail.
Pearly Everlasting
|
Beverly Creek Trail
|
Some Cut, Most Not
|
Sunshine On The Slope
|
Yellow Flower
|
Bill Peak In Sight
|
Iron, Teanaway, Bill's
|
Fourth Creek Junction
|
Indian Paintbrush
|
Harebell
|
Rocky Trail
|
Meadow & Neck
|
Old Snag
|
Gentians
|
Looking East
|
At Iron Pass
|
Heading For Iron Summit
|
View East To Bean
|
Mt. Rainier
|
Esmerelda & Daniel
|
Teanaway & Stuart
|
Chimney Rock
|
Three Queens
|
Mt. Daniel
|
Leaving Iron Summit
|
Bill's Peak
|
Route To Bean Peak
|
Lush Ferns
|
Asters
|
Meadow On Trail
|
Really Rocky Trail
|
Teanaway & Bill's Pks
|
Silvered Snag
|
Nearing Ridge
|
Mary & Rainier
|
Ridge Top!
|
Navaho & Earl
|
Route Back To Iron
|
Nearing Bean Summit
|
Stuart Range
|
Bean Peak Summit
|
Bean Basin Below
|
Ridge, Mary, & Rainier
|
Earl Peak
|
I'm Down The Face
|
Descending From Bean
|
In Bean Basin
|
Heading Out
|
Last Paintbrush |
A Little Brushy |
Shadows |
Click on thumbnails to get
larger pictures.
Trips
- 2022
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