Bean
Peak Loop
9-8-13
I
have a few hikes I do almost every year. This is one of them. I
snowshoed up Teanaway Butte in March and had not returned to the
Teanaway River Valley since then. With a cooler summer day in store, I
chose to head east. Gwen joined me for her first time up Bean Peak and
around the rest of the loop. Other than the first few miles to Bean
Creek Basin this is not a very popular route. Being the week after
Labor Day I did not expect to meet many folks. I was not
disappointed. We met at the very early hour of 5:30 am in Bellevue and
headed east. We ran into a highway closure at Hyak as a big beam was
being brought in for the new Highway 522 bridge over the Snohomish
River. The road closed at 6:00 am. We arrived at 6:15 am. Up to a 1.5
hour wait. Not part of the plan. However, 20 minutes later the road
opened and we continued on our way. A stop in Cle Elum and we were soon
heading up the NF Teanaway Road. I noticed the small store along the
road has new owners and is once again open for business. The gravel
road is getting a little bumpier but is till in pretty good shape.
The useless drain ditches on the Beverly Creek Road have been dug open
again. I bottomed out once. There has never been the least bit of water
damage at that point. Totally useless unless the desire is to damage
cars. they had filled in on my last visit but are nice and deep once
again. Okay, off my soapbox for now. We arrived at the Beverly Creek
trailhead at about 8:00 am to find two vehicles. It was cool in short
sleeves but that's how I started. At least heading uphill we were able
to warm up a bit.
At Bean Creek we turned right and headed up the Bean Creek trail. The
route is in good shape. Getting a little brushy but still not bad at
all. I was a little surprised at the crossing of Bean Creek. the narrow
crossing I remember is now twice as wide. The creek really roared
through here since my last visit. The water level is low now but it
will be interesting in the spring. On the other side of the creek we
began to get a little morning sun and warmed up quickly. The steady
climb brought us up to the lower basin. We crossed over the creek and
checked out the start of the trail up and over the ridge to Standup
Creek. Looks to be in better shape than I recall. I knew the trail was
rebuilt into the upper basin and wondered if it now took off from this
trail, There is a sign for the Bean Creek trail heading over the ridge.
The trail that does not make the first creek crossing is unsigned and
still goes up into the upper basin. That will confuses some folks.
Back on track, we noticed where the new trail leaves the old one.
Rather than going more or less straight up it makes a longer gentler
switchback. This should cause much less erosion. At the bottom of the
upper basin we found the junction with the old trail. It is well hidden
and will soon be forgotten. The flowers are all gone as one would
expect in September. We did find a few scarlet gilia hanging on and
asters in places around the loop. The Indian paintbrush were few and
far between. The grass basin is a combination of green and yellow and
is quite colorful. Now came the fun part of the trip. 1100' of gain in
about half a mile. I seldom take the popular route up to the ridge top
to the right of Bean Peak. Instead we followed the boot path part way
up then swung left towards the peak. After the heavy rains of the past
week there was more water than usual this time of year.
Lots of small ferns wafting in the wind. I went a little farther left
than planned and found a very easy route on our knees. I managed to
miss all the loose rock. That was okay with Gwen and me too. Gentian
are starting to bloom all over the hillside. As we rose Mt. Rainier and
Mt. Adams came into view. Still barely a cloud in the sky. It was warm
but not "Teanaway in summer" warm. Soon enough we were beneath the
summit. It is a fun scramble up the final 80 of so feet. Definitely not
hiking but not a very difficult rock scramble. The views from the
summit were excellent as usual. Clear in all directions. Just a few
small clouds overhead. The south side of Mt. Stuart has almost no snow
left. We sat and picked out the many peaks visible from the summit.
It was about 11:40 am when we reached the top. With our early start we
had plenty of time left. After hiking the busiest trail on the route we
had seen exactly zero people. We spent nearly an hour on top.
At 12:35 pm we headed down the back side. We dropped down the ridge
with Hardscrabble Basin to our right. Navaho Peak was visible to the
east. I still have not hiked the old County Line trail through that
basin. Soon we were down to the County Line trail at the base of
Volcanic Neck. Gwen was especially interested in the shiny green rocks
along here. The usual small number of rocks lining the trail were it
crosses the ridge is now a long trail border. The trail was not washed
out here since my visit two years ago. Easy switchbacks brought us down
the slope.
I have always enjoyed the trail over to Fourth Creek Pass. Most unusual
was that all the creeks were flowing. The recent rains seem to have
really recharged the creeks. They would most all usually be dry in
September. More gentians and even a healthy patch of red Indian
paintbrush along here. We took a short break at the pass then dropped
down to the Beverly Creek trail. A number of washouts in the last 10
years have made this trail much rockier in the upper basin. I so often
hike up the valley to Iron Peak early in the year on snow and forget
how much gravel has washed down the slope across the trail.
Part way down Gwen noticed a bag of very warm grapes on the side of the
trail. Someone forget part of their lunch after a snack stop. We
carried them out. A few minutes later Gwen noticed a bright orange
rectangle on the side of the trail. I thought it was a marker for where
trail work would be done. In fact, it was a hunting license. We took it
and figured we could drop it in the mail to the owner whose address was
on the license. The rest of the hike out was easy. Much softer footing
once were were back in the forest. At the end of the day we still had
not seen a single person. Who says there is no solitude on the trail? A
fun 9 mile loop with about 3200' of elevation gain. Great views, one
summit, a few flowers, and some fall color beginning. We planned to
stop in Cle Elum on the way out for a mild shake. Why not deliver the
license in person? Cle Elum is not a big town and with Internet
connections we found the address with little difficulty. The owner was
surprised to see his license. He did not even realize it had been lost.
A real nice guy. We stayed around for awhile talking about the area the
the trails.
By the time we left Cle Elum
the traffic was light and it stayed that way all the way home. I had a
great time as usual on this route. In another month the larch trees
above the County Line trail will be bright yellow and snow
will be in the offing. For now it was a warm clear day with total
solitude on the trail.