We
awoke to more clear skies and were packed up and on the trail by 7:55
am. This day we had to drop 2 miles down to the Duckabush River losing
1400'. From there we headed west, up the river, to Marmot Lake and then
up again to LaCrosse Basin with Hart and LaCrosse Lakes. Gary and I
had long wished to visit this alpine highland. Initially we planned to
camp at Lake LaCrosse but began to thing about camping at Marmot Lake
and day hiking up to the basin. The trail was in good shape down to the
Duckabush. Logs had been sawed out the first day but most of the rest
of the way we had recent down logs to get over. Not really very many to
deal with. This would prove to be the last hot day. Back up into the
80s even at over 5000'.
The Upper Duckabush trail was frustrating. Many ups and downs seemed to
gain us little elevation. The downs were often steep drops to overgrown
meadow creek crossings and then steeply up again. This might not have
been a problem with light day packs but with a little over 30 lbs. on
my back it was tedious. There were a few really nice waterfalls above
us that helped pass the time. One group we talked to had hiked on a
much hotter day earlier in the week and had taken 10 hours to reach
Marmot Lake from Nine Stream. At long last we dropped down again and
reached the crossing of the Duckabush.
The folks we met at Home Sweet Home were day hiking to
LaCrosse
Basin and they caught up with us here. We pumped some water and started
up the final push to Marmot Lake. The good news is that the trail was
graded steadily uphill. The bad news is it was largely out in the very
warm sunshine. This was the last and the worst hot section of the trip
for me. We soon reached Marmot Lake and decided to camp there. The
group site as large enough but had a lot of roots. Tough to fit in
three tents. We were the only ones who camped at the lake that night.
With camp set up we headed up the trail to LaCrosse Basin with much
lighter packs. This was the spot Gary and I had wanted to see for many
years. A short steep .60 miles and we reached a junction. Left to Hart
Lake and right to Lake LaCrosse. We headed for Hart Lake first. A lone
hiker now caught up and passed us. He started at Obstruction Point at
the north end of the park. A short half mile trail brought us to Hart
Lake. It is much larger than Marmot Lake and sits in a bowl. Steep
hillside on three sides and nearly flat grass where we reached it. Our
friends from Home Sweet Home were enjoying a stay at the lake. We had
other plans.
When Opus visited a month earlier he took a trail to the pass north of
the lake and then dropped down to the trail that traverses above the
East Fork of the Quinault River and the Enchanted Valley. We were
mostly interested in reaching the ridge top. The trail climbed steeply
then more gently our of the Hart Lake Basin into a higher one then up
the grassy slopes to the pass. There were tarns in the upper basin
though they were mostly dry already. We received quite a surprise as we
topped out on the ridge top. Below us the Enchanted Valley was under a
thick layer of fog/clouds. We were in hot sunshine and a just below us
it was damp and dark. We took a break at what we referred to as Hart
Pass enjoying the views.
After a while we headed north from the pass. John and Gary went ahead.
I sat in the shade and relaxed. A little later they hollered
my
name and I headed up the ridge. Easy scrambling brought me to the
little summit they were enjoying. The views were much better from
there. Lake LaCrosse was now visible below. Peaks stood out on all
sides. At the head of the Quinault Valley stood the West Peak of Mt.
Anderson. A glacier stood out against the bare rock. An alpine lake on
one side, a glacier ahead, and a cloud filled valley on the other side.
What a neat spot! I would not have minded spending a few hours up there
but we had more to see.
We headed back to the pass then down the trail. A little cross country
travel on open terrain brought us to the trail to Lake LaCrosse. More
berries here just like so many other places on this trip. Very
surprisingly, with all those ripe berries we did not see a single bear
for the five day trip. The lake is 1.4 miles from Marmot Lake. Some ups
and downs and then we crossed the outlet and dropped to the 4754'
lakeshore. No disappointments. This basin and lake was every bit as
beautiful as we had hoped. Grass and heather ringed the lake with
pockets of evergreen trees. A good place to dip ones feet in the water
and relax. As I sat by the lake clouds from over the Enchanted Valley
spilled across the ridge. They disappeared in the hot air of the basin.
Quite an unusual sight.
All to soon we packed up and headed back. The basin is not flat and we
had several hundred feet of elevation to gain back to the Hart Lake
junction. There were still some wildflowers blooming in the basin. The
most numerous was gentian. This late season bloomer was seen in many
places on our trip. We dropped down to our camp near Marmot Lake and
cooked dinner. Later we took a walk over to the lake. We could see that
clouds were now sometimes obscuring O'Neil Pass. The weather was
changing. By 9:00 pm we were off to bad. Still three more days to go.
For the day we hiked about 9.3 miles with 3150' of elevation gain.