Day
4
On day 4 we awoke to dry tents and
no rain in the offing. More unexpectedly, we had nearly dry tents. It
was still tough putting on dry socks and then wet boots. This day we
had two climbs surrounding one big drop. LaCrosse Pass would be the
highest point of our trip. Hiking across the wet grass of Honeymoon
Meadows quickly soaked our feet. At the trail junction we found a
number of campsites. They were not visible from the Dosewallips Trail
as we went by the day before. We crossed the river and began a 2000'
climb in 3 miles. The lower part was a series of switchbacks in forest.
We set a slow but steady pace.
Higher up we broke out of the forest into meadows. There were some
wildflowers blooming and more ripe berries. Looking out the surrounding
peaks went into and out of the clouds. The effect was quite beautiful.
As we climbed the big grassy meadows gave way to small rocky basins.
The progression from forest to meadows to sub alpine was terrific.
Still the rain held off. My altimeter watch had been very accurate but
was suddenly 300' feet off and I was pleasantly surprised when we
suddenly reached LaCrosse Pass. The pass provided some great views out.
We could see O'Neil Pass in the distance. We picked out First Divide.
Part of Mt. Anderson was visible. Some great views.
We arrived at the 5566' pass at 11:00 am. We did not leave until 11:53
am. A long lunch break amidst a sea of peaks. Our first ritual was to
wring water out of our socks. Over nearly 60 miles I was happy to have
much lighter though not nearly waterproof boots. We all had extra dry
socks for camp. Now came the big downhill section. 3000' down to the
Duckabush River in 3.3 miles. It never felt that steep. We had good
views from meadows at first before heading back into the forest. The
route is nicely graded. We did have a little rain on the way down. More
ripe berries too. As the forest grew thicker we found a number of
saprophytes. These plants do not use the sun. They have no chlorophyll.
I recognized candy stripe with red and white stripes. I did not
recognize several others. Unfortunately non of us managed to get a well
focused photo. We had a long way to still hike and did not take a lot
of time.
It became a little muddy near the bottom. Since our feet were already
wet this was not much of a problem. We reached the Duckabush River
Trail at 2:05 pm. Now we just had another 1.8 miles to close our loop.
Though uphill the grade was gentle. Lots of bright green grasses and
moss. Some big trees too. The trail seemed to end as we reached the
spot where we needed to ford the river. Poking around we found a few
rocks and a log. Though the log was narrow it was easy enough to get
across with hiking poles. There is a good sized campground at the
junction of the Duckabush and the trail back up to Home Sweet Home. We
did not check it out on the way in but had to walk through it to reach
the junction. The Duckabush was very silty but the big creek at the
trail junction was clear and we filtered water there.
Now came the 1400' and 2 miles up to Home Sweet Home and one more
decision. Camp there or go up another 500' to First Divide then down
1.5 miles to Two Bear camp. The climb was at a steady grade. After
nearly 13000' of gain over four days we were getting a bit tired.
Getting over First Divide in case it rained over night was the deciding
factor. It would be almost all downhill in day 5. We climbed up to the
divide then down to Two Bear camp. We set up camp, had dinner, and went
to bed by 9:00 pm. Bugs had been annoying on day 1 in the heat. We used
head nets at Two Bear when we stopped for dinner. On the last three
cooler days bugs were only a minor problem. I never did put on any bug
juice.
For the day we hiked about 12 miles with 4,300' of elevation gain.
Day
5
The last day was by far the easiest. We started out with the steepest
stretch, losing 1800' in the first 2+ miles. We met a group heading up
and found a camper at Nine Stream. The route was much more up and down
than we recalled form the hike in. No big climbs but lots of short ups
and then downs. At about the 6 mile mark where the trail to Six Ridge
goes off and a bridge crosses the Skokomish we took a lunch break. We
saw a day hiker here. The last six miles went pretty fast though the
bottoms of my feet really felt it. The old road section was rocky.
This time we planned to skip the suspension bridge and hike the main
Skokomish Trail the last mile. We joked about a possible climb over
"Skokomish Pass" and a closure that would force us to hike back to the
bridge. Ha ha... Well, the trail started climbing. Way up above the
river. then came the washout. The old road had collapsed into the
valley. Another climb on a detour took us higher. Finally we dropped
down to the trailhead. The one we had not seen when we drove in. Nice
big trailhead signs. A little further and we reached the car. We
started out at 7:30 am and cruised back to the car at 12:35 pm. Just
over five hours to hike 11.5 miles.
This was a great trip. We packed a lot of hiking into five days. Hiking
far into the Olympic Mountains on day one then making a big loop and
returning the same way on day five. We crossed a total of five passes
including First Divide twice. We spent half of one day day hiking
LaCrosse Basin with light packs. The first two days were sunny and very
hot. The third day was cool and wet, almost entirely in clouds. The
last two were cloudy but mostly dry. We even had a little sun on day 5.
Some wildflowers and lots of ripe berries. Not what is normal for early
July but that's what we had this year. Due to the distances in we never
had much of a crowd. We did see at least one person each day.
Definitely one of the best backpacking trips I have been on.
For day 5 we hiked about 11.5 miles with 500' of elevation gain. For
the entire trip we hiked about 59 miles with 15,200' of gain.