Gary
suggested a weekend backpacking trip. John was free too. I scrambled up
the abandoned trail on Ruby Mountain 23 years ago. Gary did it a few
years before that. We have talked about a return visit for more than a
decade. Several times we had it scheduled when bad weather or fire
smoke or something forced us to cancel. This year we were ready to do
it. The campsite part way up at Fourth of July Pass is in North
Cascades National Park and requires a camping permit. The Marblemount
Ranger Station opens at 7:00 am to issue the permits. There are three
campsites at the pass. There is not lake nor a summit. Just some
campsites in the forest. There should be at least one site free, right?
Gary and John were coming from Kent and I am still a 2 hour drive to
the ranger station. Rather than getting up at 3:30 am we chose to aim
to arrive at 8:00 am. Just in case all the sites were taken, Gary had a
back up plan in the same general area. We met in North Seattle at 6:00
am and headed north. We did arrive at the ranger station right about
8:00 am. All three camping permits were taken. Oh well, yet another
attempt at Ruby Mountain was thwarted. On to the back up plan.
Just a mere 19 years earlier Gary had backpacked just east of Ross Lake
in the Pasayten Wilderness. Or is that Wenatchee Wilderness? See the
photo below. He went up Crater Mountain and then on to Devil's Park to
camp. The next day they scrambled up the end of Jackita Ridge and on to
the next summit. Even earlier he had backpacked the whole Devil's Dome
Loop trip. That is about a 50 mile loop that includes the trial to
Devil's Park. I had not ever hiked these trails. Nor had John. We drove
the North Cascades Highway east of Ross Dam to the Canyon Creek
Trailhead. We arrived a little before 9:00 am and were on the trail a
little after 9:00 am. Though not full, there were eight or nine cars in
the lot.
The route quickly crosses the bridge over Granite Creek. A junction
with the Chancellor Trail is passed then another bridge crosses Canyon
Creek. We met one hiker who was coming out after the first crossing.
Once across the creek there is another junction. Left is one end of the
Devil's Dome Loop hike on the Ruby Trail. we went right on the Jackita
Ridge Trail. A short way along the trail we reached the signboard for
the trail. The trail climbs four miles to reach the junction with the
Crater Peaks Trail. It gains 3400' from the 1900' trailhead to the
5380' junction. The trail does not seem overly steep but it is
relentless. Many switchbacks climb up the slope. It was cool in the
parking lot but it warmed up very fast as we climbed. There are not
many views out as the route is all in forest. On the other hand, the
trees provide shade on a hot summer day.
We were nearly two miles in when we reached the wilderness boundary.
There were a few streams still running. Our pace was steady but not
fast. At the 3 mile mark we saw on of the old metal mile markers nailed
to a tree. At about four miles we reached the junction. There are some
bolts on a tree but no trail signs. There is a creek just a few feet
after the junction. We arrived right at 12.00 pm. 2:55 is not fast for
four miles but we did have 3400' done. The junction is near the high
point before reaching McMillan Park. Easy terrain quickly brought us to
the park. We took our lunch break here. The park provided some views
out. We could see Jackita Ridge and the area of Devil's Park, our
destination for the day. It does not look to be that far away but their
is a significant drop in between. The trail goes farther left to cross
with less elevation loss. That does make the distance longer. While
eating we saw four guys on the nearby trail. They were heading out.
They were the last people I saw that day. Gary and John saw two others
later.
Back on the trail we contoured around the edge of McMillan Park. There
were a lot of the cotton like plants I saw a few weeks earlier at Spray
Park. We also saw blooming asters and a few Indian paintbrush. A little
color but the flower show is about done. There was one white flower
that none of us recognized. We saw it in a number of places in full
bloom. A ptarmigan mom and chicks sprang into sight. Not the last ones
we were to see this weekend. The route begins to drop and
loses about 350' to the crossing of Nickol Creek. The creek is
completely dry. On the other side the forest is much thinner. This
provides views out and also significantly heated us up. Not a lot of
shade and a 1000' climb to Devil's Park and our camping spot. Some very
close up looks across and up to Crater Mountain. As we climbed Jack
Mountain also came into view. There were quite a few ripe berries all
along the trail between the parks. Unfortunately, they were smaller
than usual. I have seen that on several recent hikes.
I was really feeling the heat and all the elevation gain as we neared
Devil's Park. When we reaches some trees and shade we took another
water break. The route became much gentler as we entered the park. At
about seven miles we reached the old shelter. Still standing. It has
several bunk beds. There is a creek on the map located behind the
shelter. We headed down to find plenty of flow to pump water. We did
not know if there would be any water nearer our proposed camping area
so we partly filled two water bags and carried them on. About half a
mile farther the trail turns ninety degrees left and we continued
through a big meadow. There are clumps of trees in spots all over the
meadow. We found a good spot right at the southern end of Jackita Ridge.
After setting up camp we had dinner. Then we headed off for a little
evening stroll 1200' feet up the ridge to the southern most point. We
had good views from camp but they were much better as we ascended. The
slope is mostly forested with some long open meadowy glades. After
first avoiding a very wet marshy spot we headed up. By going to the top
of one glade then contouring over to the next we made it all the way up
with little forest to fight through. The grade was steady at 1200' in
one mile. Near the top we rose above most trees and the views really
improved. We reached the top at about 6:25 pm. It took abut 50 minutes
to hike up. The top is Point 7111. We could see the snowy and icy north
sides of many peaks to the south. There was a lot of glare from the low
sun when looking west towards Crater and Jack. Looking east we were
able to spot and photograph the Slate Peak Lookout. My 20x zoom lens
was the least powerful. Gary and John had more detailed photos of the
lookout. We were able to pick out a number of peaks using a map.
Just below us on the backside of the ridge are two small lakes. I also
noticed a couple bright green larch trees on the summit. The summit is
large and fairly level. It made for a great viewpoint. We spent forty
minutes on top, leaving at 7:05 pm. Enough time to easily make it back
to camp before dark. A lot of the glades looked the same gong down.
With our GPS units and noticing a few footprints and pole holes we
followed our route up on the way down. The only problem with going off
route would be ending up in the marshy spot. There was some
moonlight but with no city lights star gazing was pretty good. We
managed to stay out until 9:30 pm. (The link for Day 2 is below the
photos.)