Gary
joined me for a loop trip
around Esmerelda Peaks. I have hiked the loop about half a dozen times
over the years. Gary had hiked all the trails from both trailheads but
not in one day and not the section between trailheads. Nowhere would
escape gray sky this day but we hoped to minimize any rain by heading
east. I was out the door at the ridiculously early time of 5:30 am and
met Gary at Eastgate at 6:00 am. We headed east to Cle Elum then up to
the Teanaway Road. We left pavement at 29 Pines CG and continued 8 more
miles to DeRoux CG and our 3760' trailhead. I was surprised to see four
or five cars in the parking lot at 7:42 am. By 7:45 am we were on the
trail. The sky was unexpectedly blue. We chose to do the loop
clockwise. I have almost always done it counterclockwise. Time to shake
it up a little. On previous loops I walked the road about 1.75 miles
between trailheads. Gary saw reports of there now being a trail. We
planned to check it out on the last leg of our trip.
I have posted one previous trip report for this route on 6-29-2014
with Craig Romano. He was doing research for a new hiking
guide. That was on an overcast day. This one was likely to end that
way. The route quickly reaches the NF Teanaway River. Just over the
bridge is a big meadow that is filled with shooting star wildflowers in
the late spring. There was not a trace of even one. Not off to a good
start. We did see some Indian paintbrush and a few other flowers. The
route next crosses DeRoux Creek on a bridge. Just after that is a
junction. Left climbs to the ridge between the NF and MF of the
Teanaway River. We went right on the Boulder-DeRoux Trail. Two guys
went past us. They were heading to Esmerelda Peaks. It did not look
like they would have any reason to use their ice axes. It is melting
out fast.
A single hiker was coming down already. As we climbed the forest
thinned and we had some views out towards Iron and Teanaway Peaks. We
saw some small meadows with shooting stars in bloom too. There were
also some penstemon and western anemone in bloom. Recrossing DeRoux
Creek can be difficult in early summer. Not a problem now. It was an
easy rock hop. Across the creek is a very big meadow. It was full of
shooting stars in bloom. The early lack of shooting stars was more than
made up for along the rest of the route. There were also cinquefoil in
bloom. Crossing the meadow we saw a group of six campers. Five hikers
and six campers is not exactly a huge crowd but it is a lot for this
trail early in the morning. Still, we had a lot of solitude on the
DeRoux part of the trip.
One feature of this hike is that while there is almost 3000' of
elevation gain and loss the trail is never steep. The switchbacks from
DeRoux Creek up to Gallagher Head Lake are especially gently graded.
They go on and on with very slow elevation gain. The morning blue sky
did not last very long. A few clouds gave way to more and it was
largely cloudy when we arrived at Gallagher Head Lake. A high clearance
SUV was at the first site. We said high to the guys and went down to
the shore. A bench has been put in since my 2014 visit. A nice spot to
sit and view the lake and peaks. On my last visit the clouds were
barely above the lake. This time they were at least higher. There were
even a few moments of sunshine.
We continued up to the main road and walked along the lake. Near the
far end we stopped for a food and water break. The lake is not large
and does not have the views of Ingalls Lake but it does make for a nice
destination. With a moderate pace and lots of photo stops it was
already 10:27 am. We took 2:42 to hike the first 4.4 miles. Speed was
not part of the plan. Soon we were back on our way. The next part of
the route follows a road that comes up from the Cle Elum River Road
upstream from Salmon La Sac. The road is way beyond the time that
standard vehicles could drive it. Puddles were small lakes that went
from one edge to the other. We saw the SUV heading out. It rocked and
rolled and made it through the worst spots. A Jeep was just arriving.
The road begins at a gentle grade down with meadows alongside. A lot of
glacier lilies here then a white mass of western anemone there. I don't
think I have seen anemones that thick anywhere.
The road then begins to drop much more steeply. It is badly rutted in
places but it is still easy enough to walk. There were only a few snow
patches left. The two creek crossings were low enough to rock hop with
dry boots. It is one mile with 520' of elevation loss to the junction
with the Esmerelda Basin Trail. The sign looks to be quite new. The
next 1.1 miles gains about 900' up to Fortune Pass. The bottom is quite
steep before it settles down to more gentle switchbacks. As we rose up
views began to appear. Across to a peak of Hawkins Mountain and out to
other Cascade Mountain Peaks. Higher up Mt. Daniel and Cathedral Rock
came into view. Daniel had the summit in clouds. We had a good
wildflower display on this open rocky terrain. The larkspur were really
abundant. We also saw phlox and several other wildflowers.
As we neared the pass we could see rain close by and getting closer. We
hoped to get over Fortune Pass before it hit us. It was getting windy
near the pass and we would be out of it on the other side. Much better
for an umbrella or rain gear to be going downhill. We had a few drops
hit us then it stopped. We never did use any rain gear the whole trip
though it sure looked like we would need it numerous times. Now 6.5
miles into our trip we had seen five hikers, six campers, and some guys
in SUVs navigating the road section. That was all about to change. A
guy arrived at the pass shortly after we did. As we started won we met
another then another group. Soon came another group then another. It
did not take long to exceed the number of people seen over the first
4:40.
The descent was on more gently graded trail. We saw a lot more shooting
stars along the way. Phlox, penstemon, asters, and more were seen. In
the last couple miles more varieties showed up. I saw some thistles
about to bloom. Some very colorful Columbia Lewisia were right beside
the trail. We saw past prime columbine from near the start. Finally, we
saw some that were still near their peak. There were a few elephant
head's and then a number of scarlet gilia in bloom. We reached the
Ingalls parking lot at 2:30 pm. From Fortune Pass to the bottom we
passed 73 people. Many were backpacking. It must have been crowded at
Lake Ann.
Now we just had to find this newer connector trail. Years back I had
camped at DeRoux CG a number of times and hunted for a mythical trail
to the Ingalls trailhead. I never found any trace of one. On our drive
in this morning we saw an obvious trail at DeRoux. Our GPS maps showed
the trail going off the road below the Ingalls lot. We found it with no
trouble. The route is an improvement over walking the road. Along the
way we saw both pink and yellow monkeyflower in the
same place. At 3:18 pm we close the loop back at my car.
This turned out to be a great trip. We had a lot of solitude for about
70% of our route. The other 30% not so much. The wildflower show was
not at peak but we had a great variety of flowers. We could not avoid
the clouds but we almost missed all the rain. Throw in a lake and a new
section of trail and we had a great time. This is not on my most
frequent visited trips but I do manage to hike it a time or two each
decade. Gary was able to do the entire loop for the first time too. A
fun day in the mountains.