Overcast
over the west side of the mountains. Mostly sunny over the Teanaway.
Even better, the Teanaway high would only be around 70 degrees. The
heat of summer has not yet arrived to the east slopes of the Cascades.
Gary and I had hiked up to Bean Creek Basin and climbed Bean and Earl
Peaks a month earlier. The wildflower show had barely begun. I hoped it
would be much better now. I was out of Seattle at 6:05 am heading east.
The clouds continued over Snoqualmie Pass and all the way to near Cle
Elum. As I headed north on Highway 970 then west on the Teanaway Road
the sky began to clear. Some gravel has been put in the numerous pot
holes on the dirt road. It is slightly better. The washboard is just as
bad. The Beverly Creek Road is as bad as I have ever seen it. The two
worst drain channels/deep trenches are okay with my 8.5" of clearance.
Not so good for a sedan. The trenches were made on purpose and they get
worse each year. [/End rant]. I arrived at the trailhead at 8:05 am. I
was on my way at 8:12 am.
The old road/trail up to Bean Creek is getting brushier. It is wide
enough but is much narrower than year past. There were a few
wildflowers from the start. The crossing of Bean Creek was challenging
with dry feet a month ago. Now it is just one small channel. No problem
with low top hiking shoes. It was humid in the forest even at an early
hour. Few flowers were in the forest. I broke out of the forest and
dropped to Beverly Creek. Now the wildflower show exploded. Lupine was
at or just past peak. The scarlet gilia was everywhere at right at
peak. Bright red everywhere. I was quite pleased as gilia is one of my
favorites. Columbine is one flower seen here and on much of the whole
route except high on Iron and Bean Peaks. Stonecrop and Valerian were
abundant. There were some thistles here and in other places along my
route. I seldom see Columbia Lewisia but I saw many patches this day.
Shooting stars and asters were seen too.
One highlight was a small patch of light pink lupine. A very unusual
color. There were others that I could not identify. One I have seen a
number of times and can't name was the star. These whitish and yellow
varieties covered the ground. The wildflowers continued through open
switchbacks and up to the bare rocky ground where the slope has slid
numerous times. In places the color continued right up the slope. This
section of the Beverly Creek Trail has pretty good wildflowers in
season but this year was the best display I have seen. This is not like
a high alpine meadow but the show was still excellent.
I crossed the rocky slope and went back into open forest. At the Fourth
Creek Trail junction I took a bread. There was a tent right at the
junction. After Food and water I headed on. Several small branches of
Beverly Creek are here. When water is running there are some meadow
flowers. This year there are plenty. I saw some Indian paintbrush, and
red and yellow columbine and a few elephant's head. The elephant's head
were well off trail so I could not get any photos. That turned out to
not be a problem. On the climb up to the pass between Iron and Teanaway
Peaks the flower show continued. the trail crosses above several
meadows and they were packed with paintbrush, lupine, and elephant's
head. Higher up elephant's head was right along the trail. I had no
trouble getting photos of it.
When I reached the saddle I met the first people of the day. Two women
came up from the Iron Peak Trail on the other side. After a short
conversation I headed for the summit. There are some wildflowers that
only grow in the serpentine soil on Iron. The ground seems barren but
there are some colorful flowers located there. They are all very short.
The lupine grows just a few inches high. I stopped for more photos on
the way up the ridge. I arrived at the 6510' summit to find three guys
already there. There were high clouds around but it was mostly sunny
overhead. Mt. Stuart was in the clear. Mt. Rainier had must the summit
above the clouds. Clouds covered much of the Cascade Crest to the west.
I arrived at 11:27 am. 3:15 is probably my slowest time up Iron. The
photo stops made up a significant part.
I would like to have spent an hour on top but I still had a long way to
go. I packed up and headed down at 11:55 am. Just before the saddle I
met a couple heading up. I saw seven folks on the ridge of Iron Peak.
That number would not change for hours. Back down to the Fourth Creek
Trail junction then up the loose rocky trail to Fourth Creek Pass. It
was now feeling much hotter than 70 degrees. This route does not have
much forest. Mostly it is out in the open. That is a prime reason I
avoid it in mid summer. The heat was getting to me on the climb to the
pass. The trail becomes much flatter on the way to the next saddle next
to Volcanic Neck. There were more blooming wildflowers along this trail
but not as many as on most of the route.
Another steep rocky rut of a trail brought me to the flats below the
pass. Great views here of the Stuart Range. The last 350' of gain to
the pass is on long but mostly gentle switchbacks. Near the pass the
wind was blowing hard and it felt great. The ridge up to the summit of
Bean Peak is one of my favorite scrambles. Much gentler than the Bean
Creek side. I reached the 6743' summit at 2:26 pm. A group of four was
there. They were laying around in the sunshine and enjoying the view
too. Both Iron and Bean have excellent views. Only Stuart to the north
blocks the view. Surprisingly the foursome headed down the way I came
up. They were going out via Beverly Creek. A few minutes later two
young women came up via my route. They were doing the Beverly-Bean Loop
for the first time. I explained the ridge route down and my usual route
right down the face. At 3:08 pm I haded down.
I seldom do the same route twice and this one was much straighter down
to Bean Creek Basin. Part way down I saw the two women heading straight
down my route. Lots of red rock slabs and smaller rocks on the way
down. I turned left near the bottom to avoid reaching the wet end of
the basin. I met the boot path several hundred feet above the basin. I
could see all the bright white and red flowers from a distance. There
are plenty of Indian paintbrush in bloom. The white was mostly Valerian
and bistort. I found a lot of different colors of paintbrush including
some light pink ones. I reached the upper basin at 3:47 pm. I had lots
of time left. I spent plenty of time photographing even more blooming
wildflowers. There were several groups camping in the upper basin.
I slowly dropped into the lower basin and found more wildflowers along
the creek. I was back to scarlet gilia, lupine, and more of that yellow
flowers I saw so much of on the Beverly Creek Trail. I also saw some
more shooting stars and a few monkshood in bloom. Once back into forest
I picked up the pace. The two women from the summit zoomed by me before
the creek crossing. The crossing was easy. The brush on the last leg
down to the Beverly Creek Trail was suffocating with head high brush in
bright sunshine. More columbine, roses, thistles, some penstemon, and a
few other wildflowers in bloom. The last half mile on the Beverly Trail
went by fast. I reached the trailhead at 5:12 pm. The entire trip took
exactly nine hours.
For the day I hiked 12 miles with 4400' of elevation gain. There were
two summits, some off trail scrambling, and a whole lot of wildflowers
in bloom. Other than the temperature seeming to be will above forecast
the day was almost perfect. That may have just been because of the long
time out in the sunshine without much shade. I saw folks on Iron Peak,
Bean Peak, and in upper Bean Creek Basin. Otherwise I had total
solitude for most of the day. Great wildflowers and two summits and no
crowds. It was a great day to head east for a trip.