Gary
was free and wanted to head to the North Cascades. He suggested
Trappers Peak. I first read about the hike/scramble of the peak some 35
years ago in "101 Hikes in the North Cascades". Several times I had the
trip planned and something came up. When Mike McQuaide interviewed me
for the Seattle Times I suggested we hike up Trappers. He had done it
the previous week so we hiked up Lookout Mountain instead. Something
always came up. The past few years my Subaru was not reliable enough to
tackle the road. Now I have a newer four wheel drive car taking away
that excuse. On the downside the temperature in Seattle would be near
90 degrees. Ditto for Darrington. The upper mountain would be totally
out in the open. No summit shade. With all that we decided on the trip
with an early start. I met Gary in South Everett at 5:55 am. We headed
north to Arlington, then on to Darrington and up to Highway 20. Eleven
miles north of Marblemount we turned onto the five mile long dirt road
to the Thornton Lakes Trailhead.
The road was graded last fall and much of it is okay. There are a lot
of steep switchbacks and several of them have tire churned holes that
make traction tenuous. The road is very steep. We found three turnout
filled with folks camping. So much for places to pass oncoming traffic.
It was slow but we made it to the trailhead at about 7:55 am. There
were five or six cars in the small lot at the end of the road. More
folks than I expected. The trail enters North Cascades National Park so
camping is limited by permit. They were all used on Saturday night. Me
passed several groups coming down while we hiked up. One guy was
getting ready who had very low ground clearance. I can't believe he
made it up without multiple bottoming out on his car. It was only 63
degrees when we started hiking at 8:10 am. The route starts on an old
road. It has become more of a trail. Smooth with little elevation gain
it hikes very fast. There were not many wildflowers left. Just a few
here and there.
The road turned to cross a creek and shortly crossed another. The first
was an easy rock hop and the second crosses on a log bridge. All the
way from the trailhead is in forest. That helps on a hot day. We
reached the end of the road and the trail now began to climb. The road
section was about 2.2 miles with 650' of elevation gain. It only took
us 45 minutes. We were almost half way to the lake/peak junction and it
was still before 9:00 am. The trail is not as smooth as the road
section. Lots of rocky steps and narrow spots. Not a bad trail but
steeper and not so smooth. We slowed down but still kept up a good
pace. Still mostly in forest with a few small meadows. We met two guys
coming down. They had gone over Trappers and X Peaks to a high camp.
We crossed into North Cascades National Park at about 3.7 miles. The
last three quarters of a mile to the junction were steeper. We reached
the junction at 10:07 am, just about exactly two hours to hike abut
4.35 miles. That left just .70 miles to gain the last 1000'. We met two
groups at the junction heading down. Gary had been up Trappers a couple
of times. He had not been to the lakes. Not this day either. After a 16
minute break at the junction, we headed on. It did not take long for
the trail to get more interesting. A single guy passed us here and we
had a chance to watch him scramble the first steep section. It was
steep enough we let him get well ahead before we followed. A rock
kicked loose and falling would be a problem.
The route just goes straight up. A little dirt and some solid rock too.
It looks worse than it is. We were careful and made it up just fine.
This is no linger hiking. A fall would be very painful. Only proceed if
you are comfortable. After the steep short climb the route opens up on
a flatter ridge top. The ridge is a highlight of the trip. Views just
keep getting better as you climb higher. We had a view down
to Lower then Middle Thornton Lakes. A little higher and the upper lake
came into view. There was quite a bit of haze but we were able to pick
out Jack and Crater, and Whitehorse and Three Fingers and many more
peaks. This is an angle I have not been at looking at the North
Cascades peaks. Many I could not name. The ridge is mostly pretty easy
hiking. There is one steep drop to a saddle then a steep climb up the
other side. Not really exposed. I had heard of a tarn on the ridge. As
of now it is more like a big puddle.
We were constantly taking photos. With all the stops and the steep
sections we were not moving very fast. So be it. There is a very short
spot where the ridge top is just rock. We had no trouble getting across
it. The summit seemed to be nearly vertical above as we approached. I
could not see where a trail would go up. The last part is very steep
but it goes just fine. At 11:26 am we reached the top. The solo hiker
who passed us at the start of the ridge was leaving as we arrived. Two
women were at the other side of the summit. The summit area is pretty
big. Room for a whole lot of people. It did not look that way from
below. We took just about one hour to hike the last .70 miles. Taking
time for photos was well worth the slow pace.
The views on top are pretty spectacular. We could see all three
Thornton
Lakes. Mt Triumph was above the upper lake. To the north the Picket
Range was laid out. Right below us was Newhalem. With maximum zoom I
was able to pick out Lookout Mountain. Glacier Peak was hidden by peaks
to the southeast. Views to the north were pretty clear. To the south
they were much more washed out. There was no shade and it was getting
pretty hot. I used a chrome dome umbrella which provided portable
shade.
That made it comfortable for me to enjoy a long summit stay. After
about half an hour the two women headed down. For the next seventy
minutes we had the summit to ourselves. Solitude on a popular hike. At
1:00 pm we heard voices from below. We packed up and waited for them to
reach the top. Passing a group of four near the top would be a pain. We
just waited our turn.
At 1:10 we headed down. The first very steep section proved to be no
problem to down climb. Along here we did see the single best flower
display. Indian paintbrush, penstemon, and partridge foot were mixed
together. The haze to the east was improving allowing some better
photos in that direction. We were not in a hurry to get off the ridge.
Well, not until the heat really began to get to me. Down at the
junction we would find shade. We were a little concerned about climbing
down the last steep section but it went just fine. We took another
break at the junction. I was afraid the bugs would be a real problem.
We did have small non biting flies on the upper half of the route.
There were some mosquitoes too. All in all, they were much less of a
problem than expected.
The forest was cooler but not cool. On the drive home it was 87 in
Darrington. It was just a hot summer day. From the junction to the
start of the road section is about half the distance to the trailhead.
We took to calling this section the never ending trail. I felt we were
moving at a steady pace but we never seemed to get there. After a while
it was a little depressing. We took nearly 1.5 hours to hike a couple
miles. Once on the road our pace picked up substantially. We did nearly
double the speed on the flatter and smooth old road section. Well
before
I expected we were back at the trailhead. We arrived at 4:33 pm. Still
plenty early. A Toyota Camry was at the trailhead. I guess if you are
determined you can get a lot of sedans up the road Going down the road
was much easier. We had a pretty easy drive home with a dinner stop in
Arlington.
Over 3 1/2 decades after I read about this trip I finally made it to
the summit. The haze was a little disappointing but we still had some
very good views. Gary and I love ridge walks and this one was among the
best. Having over an hour alone on the summit was icing on the cake. It
was a very warm day but not too bad. It was nice to get this one in the
books. A really fun scramble. I love the views from North Cascades
peaks and these were terrific. Hopefully I will find time to return one
day.