Gary
Westerlund and John Sluder joined me for a fun hike at Mt. Rainier. I
did this trip to Palisades Lake then up to Brown Peak and on along the
ridge top in 2018 for the first time. Gary and John like ridge walks so
I thought this would be enjoyed by all of us. I was on the road at 5:45
am. I met Gary at 6:45 am and he drove to pick up John. We drove up
Highway 410 to the Sunrise entrance to the park and then to Sunrise
Point at 6120". We arrived under blue sky at 7:56 am. Great views of
Mt. Rainier, Mt. Adams, and many other peaks. We were on our way at
8:05 am. Unlike most hikes, this one starts with a steep descent and so
finishes with a steep ascent. We dropped down 480' quickly. Along the
way we saw some magenta Indian paintbrush, lupine, and other
wildflowers in bloom. Not a great display but good one.
The route is mostly in forest for the first three miles. The forest was
broken up by lush green meadows and several lakes. At the end of the
road, a couple miles beyond Sunrise Point, is a big parking lot at
Sunrise. It has trails to great views of Mt. Rainier. Sunrise Point is
mostly for cars to stop and people to get great mountain views. There
are hikers on trails leaving the Point but not the crowds of Sunrise
itself. After about 1.5 miles, we reached Clover Lake. It was still
only 8:45 am and the sunshine felt good. There was a good display of
wildflowers near the lake. In addition to the magenta paintbrush and
lupine, we saw some Elephanthead lousewort, western anemone, penstemon,
and false hellebore, After 2.25 hours of driving and 41
minutes of hiking, I was ready for some food and water.
After our break we continued on. Just beyond the lake the trail climbs
steeply to a pass and drops down steeply on the other side. This was
the second largest climb on the way out. We then dropped down to more
meadows. We saw one lone tiger lily early and columbine in a few
places. I did not take a photo of the tiger lilies and the few
columbine shots I took were not well focused. I expected to see more
but it was not to be. At 2.6 miles we reached the turnoff for
Hidden Lake. John had done that and scrambled up above but not been to
Palisades Lakes. Next came the turnoff for Dick's Lake.
After Dick's Lake we soon entered the big meadow. There was a lot of
lupine in bloom. Bistort was mixed in with it. The pond was already
low. tadpoles were all along near the edge. Bird's beak lousewort was
seen on much of the trip. There was a lot of it in the big meadow. The
Palisades Peaks were right behind the meadow. We could now see the
ridge of Brown Peak we would soon be ascending. We climbed a bit and
reached the unsigned junction with the Brown Peak boot path. We
continued down to Upper Palisades Lake. There were more wildflowers
near the lake. We had hiked 3.5 miles to the lake. A short trail took
us down to lake level. The lake was well below the full level. Walking
along the rocky lake bed we saw a very colorful patch of shooting
stars. The color was a brighter purple than I usually see.
There were two hikers in the shade on the short. We passed by to
another shady spot for our brunch. It was still only 10:04 am. With
many photo stops we took two hours to hike the 3.5 miles. With an early
start we were in no hurry. I noticed a salamander near shore. The water
was very clear. John managed to get a good photo of it. The forecast
was for a high at this elevation of 63 degrees in the afternoon. It
already felt warmer than that in the sunshine. After our break, we
packed up and headed back to the junction for Brown Peak. The boot path
up is very steep in places and has some loose rock and dirt. Not hard
but not a real trail either. As we ascended the views improved rapidly.
We could son see Mt. Adams and the Cowlitz Chimneys. The top of Mt.
Rainier came into view too. The mountain was crystal clear at the start
of our hike. The top now had a partial cloud layer. The saying is that
the mountain makes its own weather. We had a good example of that this
day.
The summit of Brown Peak is completely forested. We all went to the
highest point. On my first visit, we took a very steep path down the
ridge from the summit. On the way back we saw a path going to the left
of the ridge. We took that and it was narrow on the side of the hill
but longer and less steep. I tried to descend my previous uphill return
and made a slight error. The path down started well but then just
ended. Below we could see a trail. Oh well... we walked, slid, and but
scooted down to the trail. After that it was a breeze going over tot he
junction with the straight down trail. On our ascent of Brown Peak we
saw a hiker coming down. Now that we were on the ridge below Brown Peak
we saw another hiker coming toward us. He said he saw two other hikers
on the ridge. On my previous visit we saw nobody on the ridge.
Now came the best part of the day. the ridge is very narrow at first.
It slopes steeply down on both sides. The Palisades and a high ridge
was to our left. To our right was a big green meadow with a lake in it.
This is the scenery we hike to see. The ridge continued on and the
lower Palisades Lake came into view. In places the smell of elk was
overpowering. They bed down on places on the ridge where it widens. The
flattened grass showed us where. The ridge then begins to
climb. It steepens before the grade lessens. The ascent is from 6150'
to about 6500'. On this summit we found some trees and shade. It was
time for lunch at 11:40 am. A lone woman hiker passed through and
continued on.
At 12:00 pm we decided to go on. I recalled going to one more summit on
the ridge in 2018. The path was easy to follow as it dropped to another
saddle and climbed up the other side. It looked like we were below the
summit where we stopped last time. The trail kept going on. We soon saw
the lone hiker who passed us sitting down on the hillside. We went up
to the ridge top and consulted the map. We were on South Slide
Mountain. Ahead was another drop and a peak blocking Slide Mountain
farther down the ridge. It was sunny and hot and Slide is lower than
South Slide. We chose to head back along the ridge to the high point
and call it a day. We than saw the hiker heading farther on the ridge.
She followed a path that was descending the hillside to the right of
the next bump. We had no idea where she was going. We quickly went up
to the top.
South Slide Mountain was the point where we turned around in 2018. We
arrived at 12:25 pm. We had views in all directions from this summit.
Clouds were now forming over us though we remained in the sunshine.
Away from Mt. Rainier it was all blue sky. The summit of Rainier was
now more covered by clouds. We could see buildings across the White
River Valley atop the Crystal Mountain Ski Area. In the opposite
directions we could just make out Mt. Fremont Lookout near Sunrise.
Grand Park was also clearly seen. At 6620' this was our high point of
the day. Surprisingly, it was only 500' above the trailhead parking lot.
At 1:20 pm we headed back. More ridge walking as we retraced our steps
back to Brown Peak. We noticed a lot of something in Lower Palisades
Lake. It was not there in the morning. Wind must have pushed across the
lake. We took some photos but have no idea what it was. Back at the
base of Brown Peak we took the route to the left that we had come down.
This time we followed the trail all the way to the far ridge. This is
the way we should have come down earlier. We then dropped back down to
the main trail. I took more photos as we crossed the big meadow. Clouds
had changed the lighting a lot. The climb up to the pass before
reaching Clover Lake was steep and in the humid hot afternoon it was
not much fun. We did take another photo break at Clover Lake.
The last 1.5 miles dragged on until we started the last climb to
Sunrise Point. It was just as steep as I recalled it. We were glad to
be back at the trailhead. Rainier was now mostly in the big cloud. Only
the base could be seen. For a Saturday in July the drive home was easy.
Perhaps a sold out baseball game, a WNBA game, and a big Taylor Swift
concert at the Football stadium had an impact on crowding on the road.
This is a great hike. Flowers, meadows, lakes, and then a ridge top
walk at over 6000'. All of this right next to a 14,411 volcano. What's
not to like. It is a long drive from North Seattle but well worth the
effort. I expect I will be back to hike it again in the not too distant
future.