Gary
and John were free for a Sunday hike. We kicked around some ideas in
the Teanaway area. I was leaning towards Miller Peak. Gary has a log of
all his hikes that goes back farther than my 43 years. He checked his
log and found his first visit to Miller Peak was in 1975. Hey, that was
exactly 50 years ago, We needed to do Miller. I asked what date he did
it. It was on June 15th. Hey our hike the next day would be on June
15th. I checked the perpetual calendar online. In 1975 it was on a
Sunday. Okay our hike would be on the same day and date 50 years later.
We had to go hike up Miller. I was curious how many time I had been up
Miller. This trip made it 13 times since 1990. I have done the loop
over Iron Bear Peak 7 times, once via bike and hike, twice from Iron
Creek, and this was only the third time up and back on the Miller Peak
Trail. We met at Sunset Way at 7:00 am and John drove east. Overcast
gave way to blue sky east of the crest. We headed up the NF Teanaway
Road then to the end of the Stafford Creek Road. We arrived at about
8:30 am. The small lot was mostly filled already. For a summer morning,
it was cold. We all put on another layer and gloves. It was a cold 46F.
We were on our way at 8:41 am.
I was not expecting much in the way of wildflowers. I thought we might
see some up high but spring has been early this year and it was now
late for flowers east of the crest. We saw some almost finished
columbine immediately. I also saw a rose in bloom. We quickly reached
the first creek crossing. We had six total crossings each way. I
recalled one a mile plus up that could be difficult. I brought poles
especially for that. This is a motorcycle trail and it has loose rocks
in places. It was looser that I ever recall. The poles were very
helpful coming down. The first crossing was wide. There were just
enough rocks to hop and keep dry feet. The wildflower show continued
with thimbleberry flowers, vanilla leaf, more columbine, and queen's
cup. Next came tiger lilies, starflowers, false Solomon's seal, Indian
paintbrush, and forget-me-nots. That was more flowers in bloom than I
expected on this trip and we were not even half a mile in. We saw a few
trillium plants with huge leaves and flowers already finished.
The second creek crossing was to deep for an easy rock hop so we headed
upstream 50' to a log across. John crossed the log and Gary and I rock
hopped next to it. It was still cold but began to warm up. One section
was wet and muddy. I'm not sure where the water came from. One of the
most unexpected findings was a patch of white shooting stars right
alongside the trail. We see purple ones a few times most years. White
ones are pretty rate. Farther up the valley we saw another patch of
them. They were right at their peak. After 1.5 miles we had gained
about 600'. The creek crossings were behind us and the
serious ascent began. We were still in forest but the open sections
grew longer. The trail also became much more torn up. There were
trenches and loose rocks where motorcycles spun their tires. There were
some good sections too but it became more work much of the rest of the
way up. The wildflower show continued with pink penstemon and blue
clematis. We saw more clematis than I can recall seeing on one trip. I
saw some at Devi's Gulch earlier this year but just a fraction of those
seen on this hike.
We also saw some Columbia Lewisia, stonecrop, and arnica. The yellow
arnica patches were a precursor to the arrowleaf balsamroot that lay
above. My talk about this being a poor wildflower hike was blown out of
the water by this point. Much more was still to come. The price of all
these flowers was a lot of shutter delay. We were delayed over and over
by photo stops. A few hikers passed us by along with two motorcycles. I
did 8 miles with 2400' of gain the day before and the rocky trail was
starting to slow me down too. The extra layers came off and it was
warming faster now. We saw just a few yellow violets then a whole lot
of Jacob's ladder. In fact, probably more Jacob's ladder than I have
seen on any hike. The first arrowleaf balsamroot appeared at about
4800'. They were well past prime but still blooming. At 5200' the trail
came out of the forest at a ridge top. We now had views across to Iron
Bear and Jester Peaks. I was on Iron Bear just a few weeks ago. We had
a food and water break here.
The ground had a lot of Columbia Lewisia in bloom. We stopped at 10:48
am. We were disappointed to see we had ascended 2000' so far with 1200'
still to go. We also had a view to Navaho and Little Navaho Peaks.
Another group of hikers arrived and took a break as we started hiking
again. Ne now had more open slopes below the rising ridge. Larkspur
appeared just before and after our break spot. I have seen it almost
every weekend this spring and have had fun taking close up macro
photos. The balsamroot display started to improve. It just kept getting
thicker and in full bloom as we ascended. We had several small displays
of scarlet gilia along here. The bright red flowers are among my
favorites. The balsamroot display went from good to crazy good. This
year has been very good for balsamroot. Most of it is now well past
prime. At more than a mile high, it was right at peak here. It was one
of the best displays I have seen. I am sounding redundant now.
We had been seeing shriveled remains of glacier lilies for a
while. At one spot we found them still in bloom. We also saw
two small patches of snow in the trees. That was it for snow. Our photo
taking pace helped younger hikers to catch up and pass us. We reached
the final ridge top with a look at the summit at 12:00 noon. In 2020
John and I did the whole Miller Loop and reached the summit in 2:07. We
had now been hiking for 3:19 and were still a little short of the top.
A whole lot of photo opportunities can do that. So far we had seen most
of the desert type flowers I hope to see in the spring in the Teanaway
area. Well, all by one of my favorites. The rocky terrain was perfect
for bitterroot but we did not see any so far. Now we just had a track
straight up the steep rocky open slope to the top. Part way up Gary
noticed a bitterroot flower. Then we saw another and another... There
were many of them all over the slope. They are tiny but very bright
pink in color. We took much more time enjoying and photographing them.
I have seen them on three earlier spring hikes but this display was
right up there with that on Mission Ridge.
We finally hiked the last short distance to the summit. One guy was on
top and more farther along or just below. We arrived at 12:20 pm. We
stayed until 1:43 pm. It was all blue sky and sunshine with a gentle
cool breeze. It was almost perfect. Gary was on top exactly 50 years
after his first visit. Trip reports from the past few weeks talked
about a mountain goat on the summit. About half way through our stay it
showed up. Just a little of its summer coat was hanging on. The goat
was more interested in eating anything green to bother with us. It did
pose for the hikers. Two motorcycles arrived and ground their way up a
rutted track to the actual summit. I had not seen that before. We had
the lingering smell of their exhaust for a while. We could have spent
another hour on top but we had a rough trail to descend and a long
drive home. We did get a few more photos of the views. From Mt. Rainier
to the southwest to the many Teanaway peaks and Mt. Stuart and much of
the Stuart Range. There was just enough snow left on the summits to
provide a nice contrast.
Our hike down had photo stops but far fewer than coming up. We made it
down with dry boots. We all slipped many times but nobody fell down on
the loose rocky trail. One by one the young hikers caught up and passed
us. We were slower than in years past but made it up and down just
fine. We reached the trailhead at 4:36 pm. It was a toasty 82F. We made
one stop in Cle Elum for milkshakes and had no traffic problems on the
drive home.
This was supposed to be a hike to a prime viewpoint on the 50th
anniversary of Gary's first visit. It was that. It was also a fantastic
wildflower hike. We really did not expect that. The variety from forest
flowers to desert varieties was outstanding. We had great weather and
great views and even a rare mountain goat sighting. Throw in a great
balsamroot display, white shooting stars and a ton of blooming
bitterroot and you have a terrific hike on so many levels. It was a
really nice day for our first Teanaway summit of the year.