John
Sluder joined me for a long
day and a lot of miles as we set out for a day of hiking and wildflower
photography. Two years ago John, Gary, and I did just the Ingalls Creek
trail on this same weekend. Last year on the same weekend, Gary and I
did a slightly shorter Ingalls hike and added a loop around the Swauk
Discovery Trail. I did not realize this would be the third consecutive
year we did Ingalls Creek on May 17th or 18th until after we chose this
destination. I have had several wildflower hikes east of the Cascades
this spring but this would be John's first. We met in Issaquah at the
East Sunset Trailhead at 6:15 am. It was my turn to drive. Traffic was
not bad at that hour and we stopped in Cle Elum for gas. It was clear
but cold east of the mountains. We had unusual snow the day before and
near the trailhead was reporting 33F at 5:00 am. We drove over Blewett
Pass seeing the burned trees from last year's big Labor Mountain fire.
Much of the NF Teanaway will be closed part or all of this year. It was
in the mid 30s north of the pass but when we reached the trailhead at
8:00 am it was up to 42F. There were only about half a dozen cars in
the lot. A trip report from the day before showed wildflowers were near
peak. I was surprised but pleased. The sky was clear as we packed up
and started out at 8:07 am. I first took the obligatory shot of the
ibises in a big dense patch. There were also some arrowleaf balsamroot
in bloom.
In the first few minutes we saw prairie stars, peas, silver crowns, and
larkspur. Needless to say, our pace was very slow. In addition to the
irises, we came upon a lilac bush. Mariposa lilies started early and
continued for quite a while. Lupine were also blooming. We saw lots of
Indian paintbrush. Most were orange or red with some bright yellow ones
too. We hiked pretty fast between photo stops but photo stops were
continuous. The river starts right at trail level and the route goes
high above and back to river level many times. That means there is
uphill on the way back. Sometimes the river was in sight and sometimes
not. Oops, I mean Ingalls Creek. In springtime the creek is loud with
lots of white water and looks like a river. In places the trail is
lined with lots of bright blue lupine. After traversing a steep
hillside the trail drops to a meadow where we had more wildflowers.
While the trail is largely in forest, I had forgotten how much sunlight
shines through. That gave us a variety of lighting for photos.
We passed an empty camp along the river. With so few cars in the lot,
it was unlikely we would see many backpackers. The poor weather the day
before also must have kept many away. It was cold at first but warmed
up quickly. The first mile had very thick flowers and they continued
all day though at a lesser level. There is a boulder field just off the
trail that has always had some ice at the bottom of the rocks and cold
air blowing out. This was the first time there was none. We also saw a
huge patch of glacier lilies here in 2024. This day there were none
anywhere on our route. About 3 miles in we passed a campsite with a
person in sight. That was the first person seen all day. A little
farther we passed a big group coming out. I did not count but I would
guess about 10 backpackers. They stayed overnight at Falls Creek
Camp at 5.5 miles in. At about 3 miles we started seeing
trillium Some were white and many were from pink to dark purple. We
always see a lot of them at every state of blooming. The trip report
the day before mentioned a lot of lots down and than only one was a
problem. There were more than a dozen and maybe closer to 20 logs down
across the trail. Most were easy to get over but one was very large.
Stepping up onto another log made it not too hard to get over. A couple
logs were freshly cut.
We generally stop at a spot along the creek at the 5 mile mark. An easy
climb down the back puts you right near creek level. This day we
decided to keep moving. As the flower show waned a bit we made up for
all the photo stops earlier. The spot on the river now has a couple
logs in it. The creek level must have been much higher to deposit the
logs there. So far we had found two spots with calypso orchids. They
are bright pink but very tiny. They grow where there is no
ground cover. We checked out those spots in finding the ones we did
spot. They are very hard to auto-focus and we had long stops to get a
good photo. Such is the fun of finding them. I also found one more
patch on the way back. Though they are only an inch or two tall we get
close enough to make them seem big in photos. When we reached Falls
Creek Camp, the GPS showed almost exactly 5.5 miles. In 2024 we went
all the way to the Cascade Creek Trail. That seldom hiked trail climbs
up to very popular Navaho Pass. That made for a long day without a
second hike. This time we continued on for about another half mile to a
special spot I discovered on my first time on the trail. As the halfway
spot this day it would make a good lunch spot.
We found the spot to go off trail and found the spot. It was almost
exactly 6 miles up the trail. This spot has some mossy slabs with lots
of stonecrop. It also has some shooting stars in the spring. On the
previous two visits we found a broomrape flower. They are tiny and very
colorful. I have only seen them half a dozen times and several were
here. We easily found the shooting stars and also some Columbia
Lewisia. There was also some arrowleaf balsamroot in bloom. At many
places along the trail we also saw Hooker's balsamroot. It has just one
flower per stem and smaller leaves. We arrived at 11:34 am. The spot
was in sunshine and it was warm but not too hot. The slope across the
creek is where the Labor Mountain fire descended. It did not appear to
reach the creek at any point. Most of the burned trees were in the
first couple miles. At mile 6, we had a green slope across the way with
lots of light green larch trees in sight. I was really pleased that we
had seen calypso orchids and now shooting stars. Columbia Lewisia, and
two broomrapes.
We packed up and started back at 12:38 pm. We still had 6 miles to hike
back and hopefully we would be feeling good enough to tackle another
2.7 miles on the Swauk Discovery Trail. We make much better time coming
back. We still took photo stops but far fewer. We brought hiking poles
since there are quite a few small creeks to cross. As it turned out
they were not needed. We managed to rock hoop across all of them with
dry feet. On the way out we saw the one camper, the big group, and one
more hiker heading back. As expected we saw more people going back.
More but still not a lot. It was by far the fewest people we have seen
on this same May weekend the past three years. By the last few miles it
was getting very warm. It was just the thing for those uphill sections.
We arrived back at the parking lot at 3:02 pm. We hiked back 6 miles in
2:24. With more photos, that was not a bad time. We took 3:27 hiking
in. It was 68F at the parking lot and about 5 degrees warmer than the
forecast high. There were only six other cars in the lot. The
wildflower show was really good and not a lot of people were there
early or late. We quickly were on our way up to Blewett Pass.
The road to the trailhead leaves right from the top of the pass. We
arrived at that lot at about 3:30 pm. There were 4 or five cars in the
lot. It was a much cooler 58F at 4250'. I suggested doing the loop
counterclockwise as I did it last year. The loop has about 430' of
elevation gain. It begins with some steep ups and downs. We were not
exactly fresh after 12 miles of hiking and a half hour car
ride. There are a few wildflowers I hoped to find there. Last
year we saw a few Tweedy Lewisia. Others reported seeing bitterroot in
bloom but we did not see any. The trail starts in forest and has few
blooming flowers. It heads south and makes a turn to the east. This is
where forest gives way to some views. The more open sloped also had
balsamroot in bloom as well as clumps of penstemon and death camas. We
took a food and water break on a bench and then continued. The trail
turns to the north and the slope gets a bit rockier. Here we found some
small bitterroot blooming right off the side of the trail. That was a
nice surprise. A little farther along I noticed a lone Tweedy Lewisia
blooming above the trail. At least we found one of them. The trail
continues north passing through some meadows.
The trail traverses below a bald point then switches back and climbs
out of forest. The next switchback goes right below the top on open
slopes and we found some blooming clematis. We also had views out to
Mt. Stuart and the Stuart Range. I did not recognize them at first as
they did not seem to be in the right place. Just before the top we
found several more blooming Tweedy Lewisia. We met two women here who
were just heading down the way we came up. They asked about Tweedys and
we point them out. They were very happy. It was windy on top and I had
to put on a windshirt. It was so much different than the hot Ingalls
Creek parking lot just a little earlier. We took a short bread on top
and then headed down. We were more than three quarters of the way
around the loop. The trail drops off the summit and enters forest. It
appears to be about a month earlier here. We saw a couple blooming
glacier lilies and the only spring beauty of the day. The trip back to
the parking lot was quick and we reached the end of the trail at 4:55
pm. We took 1:25 to hike the 2.7 mile loop.
For the day, we hiked 14.7 miles with about 2400' of elevation gain.
That is not a lot of gain over that many miles so the trail never
seemed steep. It is a lot of miles to hike. It is a bit harder when you
kneed down and stand up again about 100 times. Now I just had about a
two hour drive home. The traffic was not bad and that helped. I was
home at about 7:15 pm. It was a long day from waking up at 4:35 am to
arriving home 14:40 later. It was also a really nice hike. The crowds
never appeared. The weather was really good and the wildflower show was
excellent. I had two good wildflower hikes the past two weeks but this
trip had so much more variety. From trillium to Tweedy Lewisia and so
many more flowers in bloom. This will remain a real favorite trip for
the third weekend in May.